From Daft Idea...

I find planning a walking trip such as this, a big part of the fun. Starting with a daft idea, I then surround myself with maps and decide on places I would like to visit or re-visit (mountains, bothies, villages, glens, great camp spots) and then on Tracklogs mapping software, I put together a series of day routes. From the mapping sofware I can then get an idea of distance and ascent and know if the days route is feasible.

I have tried to finish at a bothy just to account for bad weather and shelter but I am hoping to wildcamp really. There are two luxury nights in Kinlochewe and Kylesku and these are locations I will be picking up re-supply packages.

For a winter route such as this, I have kept the days much shorter than I would for the summer. I am expecting to cover no more than 15 miles a day. The route is along glens and over passes so not much ascent either. The weather I encounter may well decide the length of my days and just to account for this, I do have a plan B, C and D.

Day 1 TRAVEL TO FORT WILLIAM 15-Dec-09

Day 2 Fort Willaim - Glen Dubhe Lighe Bothy 21km 13miles 351m

Day 3 Gleann Dubh Lighe Bothy - A' Chuil Bothy 16km 9.5 miles 562m

Day 4 A' Chuil Bothy - Kingie (Glen Garry) 27km 17miles 741m

Day 5 Kingie (Glen Garry) - Camban Bothy 26km 16miles 1044m

Day 6 Camban Bothy - Maol Bhuidhe Bothy 25km 15.5miles 685m

Day 7 Maol Bhuidhe Bothy - Coire Fionnaraich Bothy 27km 17miles 747m

Day 8 Coire Fionnaraich Bothy - Kinlochewe Hotel 22km 13miles 854m

Day 9 Kinlochewe Hotel - Shenavall Bothy 27km 16 miles

Day 10 REST DAY AT SHENAVALL BOTHY CHRISTMAS EVE

Day 11 Shenavall Bothy - Knockdamph Bothy 34km 21miles 1434m

Day 12 Knockdamph Bothy - Loch Ailsh 28km 17 miles 548m

Day 13 Loch Ailsh - Glencoul Bothy 27km 17miles 799m

Day 14 Glencoul Bothy - Kylesku Hotel 16km 10 miles 557m

Day 15 Kylesku Hotel - An Dubh Loch 26km 15miles 1110m

Day 16 An Dubh Loch - Strathan Bothy 23km 14miles 290m

Day 17 Strathan Bothy - Kervaig Bothy 26km 16 miles 707m

Day 18 Kervaig Bothy - Durness 28km 17miles 497m

TRAVEL BACK TO CUMBRIA

Average distance/day - 25km 15 miles
Average ascent/day - 733m

Any comments or advice regarding the route would be most appreciated as there are many areas I have not been into. Particularly concerning river crossings and non-MBA bothies.

Fort William to Cape Wrath in Winter !?!

My last post asked the question 'where next?'. Well...after a fairly quite time, not really visiting the hills as regularly as I would like, I am now busy planning a 200+ mile walk fom Fort William to the very tip of Scotland at Cape Wrath. The walk is described as 'a tough walk, one of Britain’s toughest. Wild, remote, far from civilisation. Rain, midges, river crossings all to be surmounted'. It is referred to as the Cape Wrath Trail and described in the book by D Brook & P Hinchcliff 'North to the Cape'.

Usually walked during the spring and summer, the Trail can be long and tough. I am attempting it during the winter!! Starting on 16th December at Fort William, I hope to end up at Cape Wrath by 2nd or 3rd of January 2010.

The inspiration for such a trip came from two sources. Firstly, I was thoroughy inspired by Mike Cawthorne's account of his epic winter trip through Scotland in 'Hell of a Journey' . Also Iain Harper played a big part. I discovered Iain by an entry he made in Sourlies Botthy book when I sayed their briefly last December. Iain was starting out on his Cape Wrath Trail in Winter trip. Unfortunately Iain took a fall and had to cut the walk short, but is thankfully setting out to complete it this December. I would like to thank Iain Harper for crystalising the idea for me. Iain's web site is an excellent review and musings of his winter trip. I wish Iain every success and please, if you have time, visit his site and support him.

Not being over familiar with the Scottish Highlands in full-on winter conditions over extended periods, this is going to be a real challenge for me. Walking in the winter can be tough but incredibly rewarding though ! I am incedibly excited about getting out into the hills again and am hoping to keep these posts regularly updated.

The Rough Bounds - Knoydart

There is no place really like the Scottish Highlands. Stunning isolated, rugged coastlines, wide open glens, with their ruined reminders of past times, isolated bothies, exposed ridges and summits as far as the eye can see. The sight of a golden eagle, a glimse of an otter and the call of a red deer, all sightings never forgotton. Of course there's also the weather, and usually lots of it, but for those who recon that "there's no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing", well weather can be welcomed...all kinds.

I had not been up in Scotland for seven months and a trip north was long overdue. We headed north bound for Mallaig and the ferry over to Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula. Described as 'the last wilderness area in Great Britain'. Below is a few photos and a bit of a log of the five days trip

Heading over the Mam Meadaill to Sourlies bothy. Each of us with a pack loaded for five days backpacking, even the dog! The view from the top of Mam Meadail at 550metres. Sgurr na Ciche in the far distance, the Munro for tomorrows walk.

The evening view of Ben Aden from Glen Carnach. Crossing the dodgy bridge at Carnoch wasn't as bad as it looks but we did send Skye over first just in case!

Our campsite outside Sourlies Bothy.

After leaving the tents at Sourlies Bothy we headed up the south-west ridge of Sgurr na Ciche called Druim a Ghoirtein on the OS map. It produced magnificent view looking out over Loch Nevis.

Skye stops for a photo call with Sgurr na Ciche in the background.
On the summit of Sgurr na Ciche at 1040 metres. Well worth the sweat and tears! The whole of the Scottish Highlands set out before us. On top of a Munro on a hot clear day...bliss.

The golden ringed dragonfly were doing well and we saw many throughout the trip. The River had some great pools which helped to cool us off. Eventually we came across an idylic camp site along side Lochan nam Breac.

It was an incredibly warm evening but the pressure was dropping, wind getting up and storm clouds were gathering. It started raining around 2am and never really stopped... After three days of hot sunshine it was a nice change to get some rain. The hills were topped with cloud and glens filled with grey. A long walk alongside Loch Quoich and then through Glen Cosaidh an Glen Barrrisdale towards Barisdale Bothy. The five star bothy with electric light, running water and two flushing loos!

With the rain gone, the day broke to a clear sky and amazing views of Stob a Chearcaill looming over Barrisdale. We were on our way back to Inverie and had a sweaty climb over Mam Barrisdale at 450 metres. Alongside the beach at Inverie and within 10 minutes walk of the Old Forge Pub, what more can you ask for?

We hit the pub for a few pints and celebratory meal. A great night was had by all and the venison and salmon starter is highly recommended! I would also thoroughly recommend getting into Knoydart from Mallaig using the 'Western Isles' boat. See www.knoydart-ferry.co.uk/.

Another fantastic trip into Scotland...where next?

Wainwrights Coast to Coast

Mr Wainwright has certainly encouraged a lot of people to take to the Lakeland Fells with his set of excellent guide books. His version of an English Coast to Coast Walk (St Bees to Robin Hoods Bay) is also gaining interest which I guess has been considerably heightened by the recent BBC programmes. I was inspired... and being in need of a good long walk, a few weeks ago Skye and I set off on the train to St Bees...

Looking out over St Bees on a damp Saturday morning.

The low cloud cleared by midday and eventually we had three hot sunny days walking and wildcamping in the Lakes.

A idylic camp alongside Ennerdale Water.

I've always had my eye on a camp at Grisedale Tarn and at last the opportunity. The sun on the tent in the morning made for a 7am start! The appeal of walking the Coast to Coast for me was that it visited areas I had not really discovered before. Nine Standards Rigg (above) was fascinating and I ended up camping just below the strange stone structures (below) looking out over Kirkby Stephen. The flowers and hay meadows of Shap and Orton were a real delight. I have never seen so may birdseye primroses (Primula farinosa).Swaledale proved to be a real wet crossing but the all day rain and gloom created a real remote feeling to the landscape.

Most people warn about the tedious roadwalking and crossing of the Vale of Mowbray. The seemingly endless fields of 'scary cattle', gates, stiles and crops. I was thankful to complete this section and get up onto the Cleveland Hills and North Yorkshire Moors.
After 9 days of walking we eventually reached the east coast on a glorious sunny afternoon.

In conclusion, the walk was an epic, real good fun and well worth the effort. The Lake District sections were of course the most enjoyable but Swaledale inspired me to return. Opportunities for wild camping were limited after the Lakes and getting clean water sometimes a real challenge. It certainly wasn't a 'wilderness experience' or 'get away from it all' trip. I met many people all doing the same, but then I never expected to be a lone walker! It was very well signed all along the way and I never consulted my compass once! Most people I met had day packs, their luggage being sent on day by day. Although this is not for me, I can see the appeal as their are numerous hostelries/B&Bs located all along the route and very limited places worthy of wildcamping. A great trip, but I think I'll try something a little more remote next time ?!?

It does not get better than this?

With a few days holidays to take and a good forecast, Skye and I headed out for a few days walking and camping. Buttermere being a destination I have not visited in too long a time, I decided to start from Gatesgarth Farm and see where I ended up. A spectacularly steep and ridge like ascent up Fleetwith Pike, across the top onto Grey Knotts, Brandreth and an idyllic camp below Green Gable.

The view from the camp down Ennerdale was magnificent. Such beauty, but also such peace and quiet!
The second day was like a balmy summer day. A real taste of the forthcoming summer? Over Great Gable, Kirk Fell and up onto Pillar. A sort descent down to Pillar Rock led onto a elevated terrace above Ennerdale for an amazingly remote feeling camp, considering the high numbers of people on the fells. What a stunning sunset!!

The heat from the morning sun woke me in the tent early (I had not experienced this since last May!). Breakfast outside the tent at 600m in the sun, with an azure blue sky and a backdrop of Pillar Rock and Crags; it really could not get any better than this!! Across Ennerdale, up onto Red Pike, High Stile and Haystacks, with a short stop off at Warnscale Head bothy. A relaxing and thoroughly enjoyable few days.

What a winter mountainscape in the Lakes

After spending all week looking longingly to the snow covered mountains, Saturday finally arrived. The snow still on the ground, the sun shining and real winter conditions on the fells. What more can you ask for?

Packing lots of warm clothes and various bits of pointy metal equipment, a friend and I set off for Langdale. Our goal...to get some great winter walking in. Our route...Langdale, Bow fell, Esk Pike and Scafell Pike.

What a fantastic day stored in the memory banks.

Of course the summit still had lots of people on, even in such cold icy conditions, and someone even turned up in trainers with no crampons or ice axe. I was truely amazed how they did it. I could not stand up without slipping if it were not for the pointy things on the bottom of my boots!

It really is worthwhile geting into the hills during the winter. The views of Gable were astounding from Scafell Pike.

I am just hoping the snow stays a few more days until the weekend.

Walk Images - Part III - Skye to Ben Hope

I have so many fantastic images from the walk. These below are the final ones of three parts. See previous blogs for earlier images from the walk. I hope you enjoy them.

From Skye we had a series of idyllic high camp sites to the north of Glen Shiel. This one was just past An Socach.

A snooze on Mullach na Dheiragain

This image taken early one August morning after a period of wind, rain and gloom. The sun shone, the birds were singing and everything was well with the world. Skye looks north over Loch Monar.

This is a wonderful bothy near to Achnashellach called Bearneas Bothy. A real wilderness feel. A front came in so we spent the day holed up in this bothy listening to rain batter down on the roof.

This was taken on what felt like a rooftop - on the summit of Maoile Lunndaidh.

A real hoolie of a day! We battled across Beinn Liath Mhor in very strong winds to get down into Torridon.

Skye on top of the world and on top of Liathach in Torridon.

The path along Liathach is very dramatic running along the edge of a precipitous drop.

From Liathach it was Beinn Alligin and then onto Beinn Eighe as shown above. We were so lucky with the weather in Torridon. Clear, calm and sunny!

One Monday morning about nine, we found ourselves alongside Loch Fannich (looking like a mirror) in marvelous conditions. Thinking about what I may have been doing on a such a morning, it made me really aware about how lucky I was to be doing this walk.
Glen Beg Bothy - outside...
...and inside! All my wet clothes drying over this fantastic potbellied stove.

Red deer were rutting and roaring by the time I reached the Beinn Dearg hills. They also were not phased by people and dogs. This one was most untroubled by how close were came.
The run up to the end. Ben Hope in distance.

And then reunited with the support pack spending a week on Raasay 1 stone in weight lighter!